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_posts/2024-08-14-front-mount-240mm-radiator-in-cooler-master-storm-scout-2.mdf.md

@@ -1,21 +1,21 @@
 ---
-title: "Front Mmount 240mm Radiator in Cooler Mmaster Storm Scout 2"
+title: "Front Mount 240mm Radiator in Cooler Mmaster Storm Scout 2"
 date: 2024-08-14
 type: post
 author: Beej
 tags:
   - Hardware
 ---
 
-(posted here: [https://linustechtips.com/topic/201317-how-to-remove-the-hard-drive-cage-from-a-cm-storm-scout-2-for-water-cooling-and-air-flow/#comment-2729332](https://linustechtips.com/topic/201317-how-to-remove-the-hard-drive-cage-from-a-cm-storm-scout-2-for-water-cooling-and-air-flow/#comment-2729332))
+([posted here](https://linustechtips.com/topic/201317-how-to-remove-the-hard-drive-cage-from-a-cm-storm-scout-2-for-water-cooling-and-air-flow/#comment-2729332))
 
-to answer that last question in more detail (only 10 short years later =)... at least on my revision of the case, the very top bay for 5-1/4" drives was indeed fastened with several rivets... i count roughly 8 attaching it to the front panel, 2 to the mobo back plate panel, 4 on the top and then 2 more if you want to separate the top cage from the middle cage... i wanted to remove both the top and middle cages (to install a 240mm radiator, see why below) so i left the two cages riveted together, but that then meant i still needed to detach the middle cage from the bottom cage, which required 2 more rivets.
+at least on my revision of the case, the very top bay for 5-1/4" drives was fastened with several rivets... i count 8 attaching it to the front panel, 2 to the mobo back plate panel, 4 on the top and then 2 more if you want to separate the top cage from the middle cage... i wanted to remove both the top and middle cages (to install a 240mm radiator, see why below) so i left the two cages riveted together, but that then meant i still needed to detach the middle cage from the bottom cage, which required 2 more rivets.
 
 nearly all of the rivets are a straight shot with a drill, EXCEPT the 4 on the top require removing two individual pieces from the outer top of the case, to be able to hit the top of the rivets with a drill... first the upper plastic comes off with 6 easy latches, look under the top lip and you'll find 3 bendable plastic latches on each side, 2 towards the back of the case and 1 up front... there are also smaller internal plastic latch pins (like in most toys) in the middle of this plastic near the handle... be gentle, i probably broke the tips of one set but it still all went back together very solid when i was done anyway... after that top panel is removed, there are 6 screws to remove what appears to be a handle reinforcement bracket ... then you can slide the last plastic piece up there back about a quarter inch to unlock and lift up, with the front panel wires giving just enough slack to get a drill onto the 2 rivets that last panel covered up... the other 2 rivets are already exposed after the first top piece comes off.
 
 why do this? =)
 
-i started out this case with an i7-5280 cpu and just the 120mm Corsair H80i GT cooler in the back fan position, which seemed like plenty of cooling power at the time (the double thick rad, with both push & pull fans was supposed to be decent)... but now i want to throw a i7-14700k in there which seems like it deserves a 240mm radiator ... if you have this case, you know it doesn't have an ideal top radiator mount story... it requires you to have either the fans or the rad sticking externally out the top of the case ... which is then easily "knuckle grindable" by accident when using the handle, no bueno... as mentioned the rear of the case is a very typical 120mm opening only, that leaves the front area as the last possibility... the definitely more straightforward approach in the front would be to put the radiator in place of the two lower drive cages, problem there is that it seems pretty well known at this point that it's best to have the topmost point of your radiator ABOVE the CPU block where the pump is... and the cpu block winds up pretty close to the top of the case... all AIOs have some air, which apparently increases over time due to evap though the hoses (wild)... air inherently rises to the highest point in the loop and forcing it to rise into your pump means lots of no bueno stuff: sub-optimal water circulation, maybe even none, annoying gurgly noises, premature pump failure... so i'm hoping by opening that upper drive cage cavity, i'll be able to mount the radiator juuust above my cpu block... and still have the bottom cage available for a few drives... looks like at least 3 x 3-1/2" drives inside the cage and could probably do a couple 2-1/2" SSDs slapped on the top and left side ... let alone the m.2 SSDs that we all do on the mobo these days
+i started out this case with an i7-5280 cpu and just the 120mm Corsair H80i GT cooler in the back fan position, which seemed like plenty of cooling power at the time (the double thick rad, with both push & pull fans was supposed to be decent)... but now i want to throw a i7-14700k in there which seems like it deserves a 240mm radiator ... if you have this case, you know it doesn't have an ideal top radiator mount story... it requires you to have either the fans or the rad sticking externally out the top of the case, which looks like a totally icky unintentional ... which is then easily "knuckle grindable" by accident when using the handle, no bueno... as mentioned the rear of the case is a very typical 120mm opening only, that leaves the front area as the last possibility... the definitely more straightforward approach in the front would be to put the radiator in place of the two lower drive cages, problem there is that it seems pretty well known at this point that it's best to have the topmost point of your radiator ABOVE the CPU block where the pump is... and the cpu block sits up pretty close to the top of the case... tests have shown all AIOs have some air, which apparently increases over time due to evap though the hoses (wild)... air inherently rises to the highest point in the loop and forcing it to rise into your pump means lots of no bueno stuff: sub-optimal water circulation, maybe even none, annoying gurgly noises, premature pump failure... so i'm hoping by opening that upper drive cage cavity, i'll be able to mount the radiator juuust above my cpu block... and still have the bottom cage available for a few drives... looks like at least 3 x 3-1/2" drives inside the cage and could probably do a couple 2-1/2" SSDs slapped on the top and left side ... let alone the m.2 SSDs that we all do on the mobo these days
 
 ----------
 
@@ -51,9 +51,9 @@ good'nuf!
 ![last upper rivet]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/7 - last upper rivet.jpg)
 ![final result]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/8 - final result.jpg)
 
-![radiator installed]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/9 - radiator installed.jpg)
-![installed - side]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/10 - installed - side profile.jpg)
+![radiator installed]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/9 - radiator installed.png)
+![installed - side]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/10 - installed - side profile.png)
 ![30 degrees at idle]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/11 - 30 degrees idle.jpg)
-![upgraded parts]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/12 - upgraded parts.jpg)
+![upgraded parts]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/12 - upgraded parts.png)
 ![full package on desk - front]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/13 - full package on desk - front.jpg)
 ![full package on desk - side]({{ site.baseurl }}/images/uploads/2024/coolermaster-case/14 - full package on desk - side.jpg)

_posts/2024-08-20-Gen2-GuliKit-TMR-PS4-joystick-drift-fix.md

@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ tags:
   - Hardware
 ---
 
-posted here: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R8FIYBK1X56SJ/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0D9Q16NJX](https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R8FIYBK1X56SJ/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0D9Q16NJX)
+([posted here](https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R8FIYBK1X56SJ/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0D9Q16NJX))
 
 Bottom line up front, just like other reviewers have said, my controller went from REAL BAD jitter on the right stick to absolute ZERO drift, pegging very very close to center w/o any tuning... super happy with the result!