Typographic, compliance and markdown fixes, adding WinSCP section, Im…

…proving the formatting of some sections (#387)

* Markdown compliance & Formatting improvements

Formatting, typographic and compliance fixes

Add OrcaSlicer as possible slicer

Add parents and grandparents to the Electronics pages

* Mini12864 & MCU's improvements

Re-order Mini12864 checklist wording;
Optimize large images;
Explicit toc assignment;
Dupe controller wiring list into separate file;

* Add the SCP section

* Add a favicon

* CRLF to LF

I'll be darned. Somehow, only some of my files were LF, and some were CRLF...

* One more page format

* V2 Gantry Squaring

Fixed crooked gantry pics: same size now
Fixed some formatting on the page: Lacking spaces, excess spaces
Removed some extraneous period (".") characters
Change some non-MD code to MD
And a general refactoring of the way content is spaced and laid out.

.markdownlint.json

@@ -0,0 +1,7 @@
+{
+    "MD013": false,
+    "MD025": false,
+    "MD004": {
+      "style": "consistent"
+    }
+  }

build/electrical/controller_wiring.md

@@ -0,0 +1,44 @@
+---
+layout: default
+title: Controller wiring
+parent: Electrical Wiring
+grand_parent: The Build
+nav_order: 1
+---
+
+# Controller (MCU) Wiring
+
+Follow the links to the wiring configuration guides specific to your printer and controller selection.  There are other controllers on the market that may work (such as Duet), but those are not commonly used so standard configurations have not been developed.
+
+## Voron 0
+
+* [V0.0 - mini e3 V1.2](./v0_miniE3_v12_wiring.md)
+* [V0.0 - mini e3 V2.0](./v0_miniE3_v20_wiring.md)
+* [V0.1 - mini e3 V3.0](./v0_miniE3_v30_wiring.md)
+* [V0.1 - SKR Pico](./v0_skr_pico_wiring.md)
+
+## Voron 1
+
+* [V1 - SKR 1.3](./v1_skr13_wiring.md)
+* [V1 - SKR 1.4](./v1_skr14_wiring.md)
+
+## Trident
+
+* [Trident - BigTreeTech Octopus](./v1_octopus_wiring.md)
+* [Trident - MKS Makerbase Monster8](./v2_monster8_wiring.md)
+* [Trident - BTT Manta M8P](./v1_m8p_wiring.md)
+
+## Voron 2
+
+* [V2 - SKR 1.3](./v2_skr13_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - SKR 1.4](./v2_skr14_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - FLYboard FLYF407ZG](./v2_flyf407zg_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - Fysetc Spider v1.1](./v2_spider_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - BigTreeTech Octopus](./v2_octopus_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - MKS Makerbase Monster8](./v2_monster8_wiring.md)
+* [V2 - BTT Manta M8P](./v2_m8p_wiring.md)
+
+## Voron Switchwire
+
+* [SW - mini e3 V2.0](./sw_miniE3_v20_wiring.md)
+* [SW - Einsy Rambo](./sw_einsy_rambo_wiring.md)

build/electrical/index.md

@@ -3,23 +3,25 @@ layout: default
 title: Electrical Wiring
 parent: The Build
 has_children: true
+has_toc: true
 nav_order: 2
 ---
 
 # Electrical Wiring
 
 ## Safety Note
+
 When wiring your printer electronics, you will be working with line voltage wiring (120V / 220V AC). Always double check to make sure your printer is unplugged and the capacitors in the power supplies have discharged before touching any wire or terminal.
 
 ***The recommendations made in here are typically out of an abundance of caution to prevent fires.***
 
 ## Risk of Damage
+
 **Never plug or unplug any device while the printer is powered.** In addition to being a safety hazard, it is very easy to damage electronic components.  In particular the stepper drivers can be easily damaged by connecting or disconnecting stepper motors while powered.
 
 ## Tips
 
 * Depending on your level of expertise it may be useful to practice crimping and soldering before wiring everything up. Bad crimps are a major source of problems later on and sometimes hard to identify!
-
 * AC wiring should be properly dimensioned. Use at least 18 AWG (0.75 mm²) for mains AC wiring, even better would be 16 AWG (1.25 mm²)
 * Buy a quality SSR (see the official sourcing guide), cheap clones may overheat and fail closed causing a heater thermal runaway. Add a 115-125°C thermal fuse to your bed heater as an additional safety measure
 * Don't run your bed above 110°C, this reduces the lifespan of the adhesive holding it onto the build plate
@@ -34,11 +36,11 @@ The recommended MicroFit 3.0 connectors are specified for up to 5A and should be
 
 When assembling Microfit connectors, the male pins are inserted into the female housings and the female pins are inserted into the male housings.
 
-![](./images/microfit-housings-pins.jpg)
+![Microfit housing pins](./images/microfit-housings-pins.jpg)
 
 For larger wires, such as heater cartridge wiring, heatshrink tubing is helpful.
 
-![](./images/microfit-heatshrink-ends.jpg)
+![Microfit crimp heatshrinked ends](./images/microfit-heatshrink-ends.jpg)
 
 ## Cables
 
@@ -53,26 +55,30 @@ You may add additional wires to your cable chains as a replacement in case of wi
 Buy some cable holders (e.g. with adhesive) to organize your cables in the electronics compartment. Keep in mind that the adhesive fails over time due to exposure to above room temperature. Cables can be hidden in the rails. Optionally print cable covers for the rails.
 
 ## Stepper Motor Wiring
-There is no standard either for the color of wire on stepper motors, nor for the order of wires in the connector. As a result, it is often necessary to re-order stepper motor wires _even on motors sold specifically for use in Vorons_.  If you are using the exact BOM motors, the colors shown in the wiring guides should work, however in any other case, you should verify your motor wiring. All control boards currently used with voron expect one winding to be connected on pins 1&2, and the other on pins 3&4.  Note that other details, such as identifying winding A vs winding B is not critical.  At worst, your motor will run backwards, which you can easily fix later, in software.
+
+There is no standard either for the color of wire on stepper motors, nor for the order of wires in the connector. As a result, it is often necessary to re-order stepper motor wires *even on motors sold specifically for use in Vorons*.
+
+If you are using the exact BOM motors, the colors shown in the wiring guides should work, however in any other case, you should verify your motor wiring. All control boards currently used with voron expect one winding to be connected on pins 1&2, and the other on pins 3&4.  Note that other details, such as identifying winding A vs winding B is not critical.  At worst, your motor will run backwards, which you can easily fix later, in software.
 
 ### Identifying Windings
 
 There are 3 basic options for identifying windings:
-1) Check the documentation.  Many motors come with a card which tells you what wire colors are on the same winding.  If there's no card, the manufacturer's website may have something.
-2) Use a multimeter: put your meter in "continuity" mode.  Pick one wire, and then find any other wire that shows continuity with it.  Those two wires are on the same winding. By process of elimination, it should be safe to assume the other two represent the other winding.
-3) If you don't have a meter available, you can twist 2 wires together, and then try to spin the shaft of the motor.  If the wires are on the same winding, it will become noticeably harder to spin the shaft.
+
+1. Check the documentation. Many motors come with a card which tells you what wire colors are on the same winding. If there's no card, the manufacturer's website may have something.
+2. Use a multimeter: put your meter in "continuity" mode. Pick one wire, and then find any other wire that shows continuity with it. Those two wires are on the same winding. By process of elimination, it should be safe to assume the other two represent the other winding.
+3. If you don't have a meter available, you can twist 2 wires together, and then try to spin the shaft of the motor. If the wires are on the same winding, it will become noticeably harder to spin the shaft.
 
 ### Symptoms of miswired motors
 
-Traditionally, trying to move a stepper that's miswired, has either resulted in nothing happening, or a nasty buzzing sound.  However, recent versions of klipper will generally detect the miswiring, and simply shutdown.  If, during your motor checks, klipper immediately shuts down: check your logs.  If there is a wiring issue with your stepper, it will report something like
+Traditionally, trying to move a miswired stepper has either resulted in nothing happening or a nasty buzzing sound eminating from the motor. However, recent versions of klipper will generally detect the miswiring, and simply shutdown. If during your motor checks Klipper immediately shuts down, check your Klipper logs. If there is a wiring issue with your stepper, it will report something like
 
-```
+```text
 TMC 'stepper_y' reports DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!) olb=1(OpenLoad_B!) CS_ACTUAL=25
 Transition to shutdown state: TMC 'stepper_y' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!)
 ```
 
-
 ## DC Power Supply Wiring
+
 Many of the latest generation of Voron printers spec the use of two or more independent power supplies.  That can include 24V, 5V, and 12V power supplies depending on configuration.
 
 **Important!**  Connect the DC 0V (typically labelled V-) on all of your DC power supplies together to ensure they all have the same voltage reference.  If this is not done then it may be difficult to diagnose issues (devices may not turn on or may be damaged due to exceeding voltage limits).
@@ -81,22 +87,23 @@ Many of the latest generation of Voron printers spec the use of two or more inde
 
 Instead of multiple power supplies, the V0 uses a DC-DC converter to generate a 5V bus instead of a dedicated 5V power supply.
 
-![](./images/dcdc-converter-wiring.png)
+![DC to DC converter wiring](./images/dcdc-converter-wiring.png)
 
 ### Larger Printers (V1, Trident, V2, Switchwire)
 
 Please see the associated assembly guides for power supply configurations.
 
 ---
-# Wiring Configuration / Setup
+
+## Wiring Configuration / Setup
 
 ### Wire counts / lengths
 
 The following are guides for each printer model for planning of wire counts and lengths.  As always, these are recommendations and adding allowances is always a good idea.
 
-- [V1 Gantry Wires](./v1_gantry_wires.md)
-- [Trident Gantry Wires](./trident_gantry_wires.md)
-- [V2 Gantry Wires](./v2_gantry_wires.md)
+* [V1 Gantry Wires](./v1_gantry_wires.md)
+* [Trident Gantry Wires](./trident_gantry_wires.md)
+* [V2 Gantry Wires](./v2_gantry_wires.md)
 
 ### Gantry Routing
 
@@ -126,7 +133,7 @@ Due to the switching used by the sensor the output voltage is approximately the
 
 Below is a circuit diagram with more details.
 
-![](./images/inductive_probe_diode_diagram.png)
+![Inductive probe diode diagram](./images/inductive_probe_diode_diagram.png)
 
 ### Endstop Wiring
 
@@ -136,34 +143,36 @@ While both of these configurations will work fine in an ideal world, normally cl
 
 Wiring mechanical endstop switches for NC operation is easy as the BOM spec switches have 3 pins exposed.  With a multimeter, probe each combination of the three pins until a pair is found that has continuity (<10 ohms resistance) when the switch is not triggered (normal state), but does not have continuity (>10M ohms resistance) when the switch is triggered (depressed).  Typically the outer two pins are the NC pins, but should be verified prior to installation.
 
-![](./images/endstop_switch_wiring.png)
-
+![Endstop switch wiring](./images/endstop_switch_wiring.png)
 
 ### X/Y Endstop Wiring (Trident, V2)
 
 The X/Y endstop connector can be strapped to the bottom of the joint. Just make sure the cable is long enough, be sure to install the cover to keep any prints that fly off from bonding to your endstops.
 
-
 ## Controller (MCU) Wiring
 
 Follow the links to the wiring configuration guides specific to your printer and controller selection.  There are other controllers on the market that may work (such as Duet), but those are not commonly used so standard configurations have not been developed.
 
 ### Voron 0
+
 * [V0.0 - mini e3 V1.2](./v0_miniE3_v12_wiring.md)
 * [V0.0 - mini e3 V2.0](./v0_miniE3_v20_wiring.md)
 * [V0.1 - mini e3 V3.0](./v0_miniE3_v30_wiring.md)
 * [V0.1 - SKR Pico](./v0_skr_pico_wiring.md)
 
 ### Voron 1
+
 * [V1 - SKR 1.3](./v1_skr13_wiring.md)
 * [V1 - SKR 1.4](./v1_skr14_wiring.md)
 
 ### Trident
+
 * [Trident - BigTreeTech Octopus](./v1_octopus_wiring.md)
 * [Trident - MKS Makerbase Monster8](./v2_monster8_wiring.md)
 * [Trident - BTT Manta M8P](./v1_m8p_wiring.md)
 
 ### Voron 2
+
 * [V2 - SKR 1.3](./v2_skr13_wiring.md)
 * [V2 - SKR 1.4](./v2_skr14_wiring.md)
 * [V2 - FLYboard FLYF407ZG](./v2_flyf407zg_wiring.md)
@@ -173,6 +182,7 @@ Follow the links to the wiring configuration guides specific to your printer and
 * [V2 - BTT Manta M8P](./v2_m8p_wiring.md)
 
 ### Voron Switchwire
+
 * [SW - mini e3 V2.0](./sw_miniE3_v20_wiring.md)
 * [SW - Einsy Rambo](./sw_einsy_rambo_wiring.md)
 
@@ -186,11 +196,12 @@ If installing a Mini12864 display, please follow the [Mini12864 Klipper Guide](.
 
 It is possible to use the SKR (and possibly other controllers) to control fans, LEDs, and other devices even when those devices use a different voltage.  The SKR, like most controllers, uses the (-) pin to control if a device is switched on or off.
 
-For a given device, is the V+ is wired to an external power supply (e.g. 5V or 12V), and the V- is wired to the SKR, the fan can be switched on or off.  As mentioned above, this will _only_ work if the DC 0V of all of the power supplies is tied together.
+For a given device, is the V+ is wired to an external power supply (e.g. 5V or 12V), and the V- is wired to the SKR, the fan can be switched on or off.  As mentioned above, this will *only* work if the DC 0V of all of the power supplies is tied together.
 
 Note: In the diagram below, only DC wires are shown.  Red represents V+, black represents V-.
 
-![](./images/gnd_switch_example.png)
+![Example of low side switching](./images/gnd_switch_example.png)
+
+---
 
-----
 ## Next: [Software Installation](../software/index.md)

build/electrical/mini12864_klipper_guide.md

@@ -1,46 +1,65 @@
 ---
 layout: default
-title: Mini12864 Klipper Guide
+title: Mini12864 display
 parent: Electrical Wiring
-nav_order: 1
+grand_parent: The Build
+nav_order: 2
 ---
 
-# Mini12864 Klipper Guide
+# Mini12864 Klipper guide
 
 ## Requirements
 
 1. An MCU must be used that is compatible with the EXP1/EXP2 wiring standard (e.g. SKR, FLY).
 2. The EXP1/EXP2 ports must be available and not connected to another expansion module
 
 ## Hardware
-*NOTE: The two connector housings only need to be reversed if the MCU and display are different brands.  If you have both a BigTree Tech mini12864 and a BigTree Tech MCU (Or both a FYSETC mini12864 and an FYSETC F6/S6), skip steps 1 & 2*
+
+*NOTE: The two connector housings only need to be reversed if the MCU and display are different brands.  
+If you have both a BigTree Tech mini12864 and a BigTree Tech MCU (Or both a FYSETC mini12864 and an FYSETC F6/S6), skip steps 1 & 2*
+
 1. Pry off the two black connector housings from the back of the display
 2. Rotate connector housings 180 degrees and insert back onto pins
 3. *Fysetc Spider Only*: The Fysetc Spider requires certain components to be removed from the mini12864 display.  
    * From a Fysetc display, remove R1 & R4
    * From a BTT display, remove R1 & C6
-4. Connect EXP1 and EXP2 cables to the display and to your MCU board, being sure to match port numbers (EXP1 <> EXP1).  <br> *Note: The Fysetc Spider V1.0 has a silk screen error.  __for V1.0 only__, Connect EXP1 to EXP2, and EXP2 to EXP1*
+4. Connect EXP1 and EXP2 cables to the display and to your MCU board, being sure to match port numbers (EXP1 <> EXP1).  
+   *Note: The Fysetc Spider V1.0 has a silk screen error.  __for V1.0 only__, Connect EXP1 to EXP2, and EXP2 to EXP1*
 
+![Mini12864 header housing flipped](./images/mini12864_header_flip.jpg)
 
-![](./images/mini12864_header_flip.jpg)
+## Klipper configuration
 
-## Klipper Configuration
-Most stock Voron configuration files already have appropriate configurations for this display built in, which simply needs to be un-commented.  These  configs are customized for the specific builds, and should be what you use.  *_Note: There are multiple config sections required to make the mini12864 fully operational: `[display]`, `[neopixel fysetc_mini12864]` and `[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]`_*
+Most stock Voron configuration files already have appropriate configurations for this display built in, which simply needs to be un-commented. These configs are customized for the specific builds, and should be what you use.
 
-Some users find that they want to reverse the direction the menu wheel spins.  You can easily reverse its operation by swapping the order of the two pins in the `[display]` `encoder_pins` line.  For example, if your stock config contains the line 
-```
+Note that there are multiple config sections involved in getting the mini12864 display fully operational:
+
+* `[display]`
+* `[neopixel fysetc_mini12864]`
+* `[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]`
+* `[output_pin beeper]` (optional)
+
+Some users find that they want to reverse the direction the menu wheel spins. You can easily reverse its operation by swapping the order of the two pins in the `[display]` `encoder_pins` line.
+
+For example, if your stock configuration contained
+
+```yml
+[display]
 encoder_pins: ^PC7,^PC6
 ```
-you would change it to
-```
+
+you would reverse these pin assignments to
+
+```yml
+[display]
 encoder_pins: ^PC6,^PC7
 ```
 
-## Mini12864 Troubleshooting Checklist
+## Troubleshooting checklist
 
-The Mini12864 display can be a little tricky to get running correctly.  Here is a short checklist to help double check some of the common issues.
+The Mini12864 display can be a little tricky to get running correctly. Here is a short checklist to help double check some of the common issues.
 
-* Have you Rotated the headers on the back of the display?  See [Hardware](#hardware) above
+* Have you Rotated the headers on the back of the display? See [Hardware](#hardware) above
 * Is EXP1 connected to EXP1, and EXP2 to EXP2?
-* Have you enabled all the config sections?  you must have `[display]`,  `[output_pin beeper]`, `[neopixel fysetc_mini12864]`, AND `[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]` to fully enable all features of your display.  (many users may not feel the need to enable `[output_pin beeper]`)
-* Voron 2 dual MCU configurations: Is your firmware configuration in agreement with your physical wiring about which MCU board the display is connected to?  ( As provided in the stock printer.cfg, the display should be connected to MCU-Z )
+* Have you enabled all the config sections? Config options `[display]`, `[neopixel fysetc_mini12864]`, and `[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]` are required to fully enable all features of your display. However, `[output_pin beeper]` is optional.
+* Voron 2 dual MCU configurations: Is your firmware configuration in agreement with your physical wiring about which MCU board the display is connected to?  (As provided in the stock printer.cfg, the display should be connected to MCU-Z)

build/electrical/sw_einsy_rambo_wiring.md

@@ -1,6 +1,8 @@
 ---
 layout: default
 title: "Voron Switchwire - Einsy Rambo Wiring"
+parent: Electrical Wiring
+grand_parent: The Build
 nav_exclude: true
 ---
 
@@ -16,10 +18,9 @@ nav_exclude: true
 * Plug Bed Thermistor in to thermistor T2 (PF2)
 * Connect Bed Heater to Bed Output (PG5)
 * Connect X end stop to X-MIN (PB6)
-* _Y Endstop is not used._
-* Connect inductive probe to Probe input (PB4), on pins +, -, and 's' on the drawing.  _Pin 1 (T) is unused._
+* *Y Endstop is not used.*
+* Connect inductive probe to Probe input (PB4), on pins +, -, and 's' on the drawing. *Pin 1 (T) is unused.*
 * Wire +V and -V from DC power supply to both Power Input and Bed Power Input.
 * Connect USB Cable, but do not connect it yet to your Raspberry Pi
 
-![](./images/EinsyRambo1.1a-connections.jpg)
-
+![Einsy Rambo 1A connections](./images/EinsyRambo1.1a-connections.jpg)

build/electrical/sw_miniE3_v20_wiring.md

@@ -1,6 +1,8 @@
 ---
 layout: default
 title: "Voron Switchwire - SKR mini E3 V2.0 Wiring"
+parent: Electrical Wiring
+grand_parent: The Build
 nav_exclude: true
 ---
 
@@ -22,11 +24,10 @@ nav_exclude: true
 * Wire 24V and -V from DC power supply to VIN and GND terminals in corner
 * Connect USB Cable to your SKR mini E3, but do not connect it yet to your Raspberry Pi
 
-![](./images/v0-miniE3-v20-mcu.png)
-
+![SKR mini E3 V2.0 MCU](./images/v0-miniE3-v20-mcu.png)
 
 ## Mini E3 V2.0 Pinout
 
 For reference, here is the pinout of the SKR mini E3 V2.0
 
-![](./images/miniE3-v20-pinout.png)
+![SKR mini E3 V2.0 Pinout](./images/miniE3-v20-pinout.png)